During our stay in Grand Teton National Park, we hiked 6 trails. Our hikes included the Lakeshore Trail at Signal Mountain Lodge, the Taggart Lake-Bradley Lake Loop, String and Leigh Lakes Trail, Phelps Lake Loop, Hermitage Point from Coulter Bay, and Cascade Trail (including Hidden Lake and Inspiration Point). These trails varied in length (from 5-15 miles) and difficulty (from level and easy to steep and rocky). We heard animals such as the bugling elk, saw wildlife such as elk crossing a lake and bison in the distance, and saw plenty of evidence of large animals such as Moose and Grizzly Bear. Of course, we carried bear spray with us, and we made sure to announce ourselves anytime we couldn’t see very far ahead. We knew there were bears, moose, and elk nearby in certain areas, but we also knew we were not perceived as a threat if we didn’t surprise them or get too close.
The first 2 days after arriving we had thick clouds, rain, and a snow shower. On our first day we took an afternoon walk along the lakeshore, fighting a strong wind and rain on our return walk as a cold front moved in. Supposedly there are lovely views of the lake and excellent views of the Teton range from this hike, but the low clouds obscured the views, and with the rain and wind, the camera stayed mostly inside its cover. Not a day for photos!
Our second hike was a loop that took us around Taggart Lake and Bradley Lake. Like the previous day, the clouds were low, obscuring what are described as beautiful views of the mountain peaks. The weather was cool but not windy, and we had a snow shower that added calmness and beauty to the hike. There was a light mist rising from the lake’s surface, giving a sense of mystery to the scene. Most of the aspen trees had lost their leaves, but there were a few protected areas where the color was still bright. At the very end of the day, just as we reached the main road near the trailhead, the clouds started lifting, revealing the peaks and the forested slopes, giving us our first views of the mountains from up close, and it was an impressive sight.
Our third hike took us to String Lake and Leigh Lake, both of which sit just below the mountain peaks. Although the mountains were obscured in the morning, the clouds gradually lifted to reveal the grandeur that defines the Tetons. There were moments when the surface of the lake was calm, providing wonderful reflections of the forested slopes with spots of snow and patches of color from Aspen groves. We lingered on a long stretch of beach by Leigh Lake, having our lunch and watching the clouds move across the peaks. It was a gorgeous day, with perfect temperatures and calm winds, a welcome change from the previous days of wind, cold, and rain/snow. As we walked back to the trailhead just after sunset, we heard across the lake the loud bugling of bull elk as they announced their presence, warning away other bulls and attracting mates. It is a magical sound, and we were fortunate to have the opportunity to listen to the bugling for well over an hour. Just before reaching the trailhead, we heard splashing in the water down the way and looked back to see a bull elk leading his harem across the shallow waters of the lake. What a treat to both hear and see these magnificent creatures.
The next day carried over the clear skies and warm sunshine, giving us a wonderful hike at Phelps Lake. We had read that this lake was a favorite hangout for Grizzly bears, and sure enough, as we walked down to the lake, a couple told us about a mother Grizzly and her 2 cubs feeding the meadow just beside trail below, and about another large Grizzly just above the beach at the other end of the lake. During our hike, we didn’t spot any bears, but we saw plenty of fresh bear scat on the trail, so we knew they were nearby. We circled the lake counterclockwise, and about halfway around the first side of the lake, we walked out to a small peninsula and sat in the warm sun on a large boulder by the edge of the lake to have our lunch. We couldn’t ask for more! Continuing around the lake, the light softened and the waters calmed, providing beautiful reflections on the surface of the mountains across the lake. As we completed the last leg of our circle around the lake, the afternoon sun was slowly setting over the ridges across the lake, and the soft rays of the sun were streaming through the trees. It was very relaxing and kept us from feeling tired as we anticipated the long walk back to the trailhead.
Our fifth hike in the Tetons started with a beautiful full moon emerging from the fog hanging over the lake and setting over the mountains. Our hike started at Colter Bay and went to Hermitage Point, at the far end of a long peninsula jutting out into Jackson Lake. The walk took us past Swan Lake and Loon Lake and through forest where we saw elk grazing in the meadows near the trail. Hermitage Point afforded nice views across Jackson Lake of Mt Moran and the adjacent mountains. We were practically alone for the entire 11+ mile hike, and we had time at Hermitage Point to relax and enjoy our lunch while admiring the views and being entertained by Canadian Geese on the lake. On the way back to the trailhead, we met a possum sitting in a tree right by the trail, its bright eyes reflecting our headlights.
Our final full day in the Tetons started with a clear, sharp sky, with the calm waters of Jackon Lake reflecting the Teton range. Bliss gave her knees a well-deserved rest while I headed for Cascade Trail. I started my hike from the boat launch parking lot at String Lake, the trail winds its way along Jenny Lake to the trail for Hidden Falls and Inspiration Point. I had my lunch on a flat boulder near the stream about 2 miles after Inspiration Point. There were moose tracks and bear scatt by the stream, and a pica waited nearby for possible crumbs left behind. As I walked up the trail, there were beautiful views of the canyon walls on the north side, illuminated by the sun. A couple of peaks on the south side were nicely lit in the late afternoon. There was a long cascade/waterfall flowing down the cliff on the north side about three-quarters of the way up the trail. I decided to turn around at the bridge after 8 miles on the trail, even though I was only 200-300 meters from the Trail Fork (my intended destination), but I was concerned about getting back down to Inspiration Point before dark, given the number of bear and moose that had been sighted by fellow hikers during the day. I reached Inspiration Point just before sunset. Although the light on the east hills was almost gone by the time I arrived, I sat at Inspiration Point while having my late afternoon snack, getting some energy before making my way back to the trailhead.