After a week in the overly crowded Lake Louise area, we were really looking forward to a few days in the backcountry. And after several days of rain, we were very much ready for some sun. We got both at
Shadow Lake Lodge. There we found ourselves in a retreat setting, a group of cabins sitting on the edge of a lush green meadow, nestled within a set of majestic peaks that invite you to just sit and watch the fast-moving clouds as they cover and then reveal the mountainsides. They also invite you to get out for hikes that will bring you closer to their rugged grandeur. During the 3 days we were at the lodge, we both enjoyed the view from the meadow, and also ventured off in search of meadows, streams, lakes and closer views of the mountain peaks.
Our first hike, on the afternoon we arrived was on the short trail from the lodge down to
Shadow Lake. The view of Mt. Ball towering above the far end of the lake, occasionally reflected in the surface of the water during brief moments when the wind calmed down, was truly regal. It was the most peaceful setting you could ask for, and it perfectly provided the peace and calm that we needed, disturbed only by the need to get back to the lodge for dinner.
After a peaceful and restful night’s sleep, we left late morning to hike the
Waterfalls and Amphitheater Trail. The brochure notes that it is a 3-4 hour return hike, but we took our time (and more than a few photos) on a day that was a mix of clouds, showers, and sun. Fortunately, it was more of the latter, and we just soaked in the chance to be in such fresh, crisp air and so free from the crowds. We hiked along the shore of Shadow Lake, up a rugged trail to 2 beautiful waterfalls, through a carpet of yellow glacier lilies/columbine, across a huge moraine, and into an amazing amphitheater where we were surrounded by multi-layered cliffs and ridges and mountain peaks, totally enveloped in a stark rockscape that was other-worldly. We couldn’t bring ourselves to leave this magical place, and we were late for dinner even though we hurried back as the sun began to drop behind the peaks. Fortunately, we arrived in time to satisfy our stomachs, but our minds were already filled with remarkable images of an extraordinary setting.
We stayed in the cabin named for Haiduk peak, so on our last full day at the lodge, we set off on the
Haiduk Lake Hike. We left thinking it was an 8-mile round-trip, but we discovered on the way back that it was actually a 10-mile trip. It took us again by Shadow Lake, where the views got even better every time we visited, and then we followed a stream that took us through gorgeous meadows, including one with an iconic mountain scene, which I tried to capture on the way to Haiduk Lake, and again in almost perfect late afternoon light on the way back. The way to Haiduk Lake took us through flower-lined trails and along a beautiful tarn just before the lake. Haiduk lake itself lies beneath the massive cliffs of Haiduk mountain and invites you to stay for a while. But again, we were in danger of missing dinner and had to hurry back, knowing that we had to cover 5 miles to reach the lodge. Everyone was nearly finished with dinner by the time we arrived, but the kitchen staff had very kindly kept our food for us, and after the long hike, we were much appreciative of their consideration and flexibility.
On the day we left Shadow Lake Lodge, we had a very difficult time pulling ourselves away, so we stayed around until the afternoon (almost in time for the tea service we had missed every day) before walking the 9 miles back to our car. I’m sure we’ll go again to this beautiful place, and perhaps we’ll be able to stay longer next time.
Fortunately, the good weather held, and the next day we hiked what turned out to be our most enjoyable hike on the trip. You’ll see why when you visit the
Helen Lake Gallery.
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